Whernside, the highest point in Yorkshire, is a popular hiking destination, especially during the summer months. The author, Eibhlis Gale-Coleman, decided to test the crowds on this route, which also attracts onlookers hoping to spot steam trains crossing the Ribblehead Viaduct. The 12.5km route starts and ends on Blea Moor Road, and the author arrived at a civilised 10am, despite the limited roadside parking. The overcast weather seemed to have discouraged some of the usual crowds, but the author still encountered bottlenecking on the ascent, with 30-40 hikers descending carefully down the steep steps. The hikers were a mixed bunch, with some trail runners leaping past and grim-faced walkers with backpacks looking to attempt the Three Peaks. Once the author reached the ridge, it was more peaceful, with regular spells of a minute or so with nobody else in sight. The summit itself is a stone marker, with seating available against curved drystone walls, and a consistent group of 15-20 hikers at the summit. The author only waited for two minutes to get a photo of the stone marker, unlike the 45-minute queues at major summits like Mt Snowdon. The descent was via a gentle sloping ridge, and the author crossed a wooden footbridge, watched a train rush through Blea Moor Tunnel, and greeted a handful of walkers along the way. Heavy crowds only reappeared once the author arrived at the track beneath the Ribblehead Viaduct, just 15 minutes away from the car. At 4pm, there seemed to be a second wave of visitors, who were admiring the Ribblehead Viaduct rather than hiking Whernside. The author joined a large group for a celebratory scoop of rocky road ice cream, and was pleasantly surprised at how sociable it felt, despite the crowds. Overall, the author won't be so hesitant to return to Whernside, even during the summer months.